PHASE 3: Stage II Suspension, wheels and tires
A coil sprung Rover, be it a Defender 90 or a Disco has about twelve choices for suspensions. Some people like a nearly stock set up with lift blocks or spacers and longer shocks for a good low cost build up. Some people like spherical bushings and all out high tech in search of the highest RTI score at all costs. In the Discotech we decided to split the difference. We'll be installing a modified Safari Gard Stage II. We like the high end shock technology of the Fox Shocks and the added lift achieved without large lift blocks. We also like the Old Man Emu springs as they are relatively cheap and we can swap rates easily without having to worry about getting custom made units. The Discotech has a Tdi engine that is much heavier than the V8 unit, so through OME (Old Man Emu) we can source the correct springs for a diesel Disco and mate them to the correct Fox shock length for max. articulation right out of the box. As we said, this is the best suspension system for our uses and our tastes. Suspension choices are subjective. Everyone has an opinion and no one is really correct, as it is all a matter of personal tastes.
Our Stage II install started by gutting the old bump stops, spring, shocks, trailing arms and radius arms.
We then checked all the suspension wear items (bushings, link joint, etc) for wear and tear and replaced what was needed. Fortunately for us the bushings and A-arm joint were all in great shape, so little extra had to be done. We did find some well worn brake pads though, so we replaced those while we were in there. The image above shows the finished Stage II in the rear of the Discotech. We've installed the new springs, Fox racing shocks and the longer bumper stops. Next we adjusted the shock pressure for a good starting point for when road tests happen in a few weeks. Our only gripe about the Stage II suspension is that the very pretty shocks only stay that way for about a year. After a Maine winter the shocks will be dull looking. The rest of it we love and have been running in a number of Rovers for many years with no problems.
In this image you can see the modified trailing arms. These are changed in length to suit the lift kit and the angle of the arm where it reaches the bushing is corrected to reduce preload on the bushing that would cause limited axle droop and premature wear of the bushings. the rear end is now basically done. We still plan a few small items like SS brake lines, but basically we can move to the front of the project.
Now that we are starting to get real suspension height figures we can start to think about tires (rims are already set as NATO HD steel max offset units as we want to stay with as many Rover parts as possible). Here at ECR we love old vintage Series IIAs with a good old 7.50x16s, but we also love a lifted D90 with 36" Super Swampers and MRT beadlock rims, they are all cool in very different ways. The Discotech is being built to see just what can be done to a Disco. Does that mean we should stick with the stock or little rims and tires... no way!!! A research project such as the Discotech means that you push it to the limit and see what you can and can't do. As you can see in the image above, with the Stage II installed, and the wheel flares on, we have a ton of space in our wheel wells. The stock rims and tires look downright silly.
We'll need to do some road tests and some RTI tests before we can choose a final tire size that works all around, but the rims and tires from ECR 4 (our project Defender 90) fit right on and will handle the rear articulation. The image above shows the rear of the Discotech with Defender 130 steel wheels (ANR1534s) and 35x12.50x16 Super Swamper SSRs.
Will we go this big? most likely not (we've already got 35s on ECR4)... only time will tell, but they do fit and they look good to us. The downside is that with larger tires comes more stress on axles and such. To combat this, no matter what size tire we end up with, we will be upgrading the axles, CVs and every part of the system so that nothing will break. Our lack of ABS on the Discotech means we could install the toughest CV joints going and could even run a 30 spline set up in the rear, although we'll likely stick to HD 24 splines for our uses on this Rover. We already know our new gear ratio to correctly compensate for the Tdi will be Ashcroft 4.11s (as we feel 4.70s have too weak a pinion surface) and the rest of the Discotech will need to be built up to match the power and tire combinations. Once we get the tire and suspension set up we are happy with then we will set up the axles and CVs as we feel is needed. We'll be using all bolt on axle parts and we'll detail those installs for you as well.
The front suspension on the Discotech has seen better days and it all needs to come out of there. We'll gut all the front suspension and replace it with the SG Stage II system and fabricate the needed corrections to our radius arms, as well as install stainless brake lines, and ECR ROX stabilizer relocation kit and tie rod guard. We'll also be pulling the front differential at this time and getting it set up with its ARB air locker and Ashcroft 4.11 ring and pinion set. (For more on that go to the Differential section link at the bottom of this page).
Once the front suspension is removed we can get started on the new set up. The radius arms need to be corrected for proper on road handling due to our suspension lift. We have a jig for building corrected radius arms for all types of lifts so it is a simple matter of fabricating the radius arms correctly. The image above shows the radius arms from the Discotech that have been modified as needed and are now ready to be blasted, primed and painted in a satin black.
Probably the most important upgrade you can do to a Disco, or a Range Rover Classic for that matter, is to relocate the steering stabilizer to the front of the axle, up and out of the way. We can't tell you how many times we have gone off roading with Discos that have the stock steering stabilizer and inevitably it gets squashed on a rock or log and makes it so that the Rover will not steer correctly. We make a solution for this, as do a number of other companies, and we highly suggest this upgrade. Before you slap on the Hella driving lights, think about doing this upgrade, and perhaps a tie rod guard. Sure the lights look good, but these upgrades will make it so you drive home, rather than walk. The image above shows our heavy duty drag link and the steering stabilizer brackets, both for the rod and the frame mount. These units will also now get blasted, primed and painted prior to install.
Once everything is epoxy primed and painted we can install the front suspension. In this image you can see we have installed the corrected radius arms and the front springs. We've also installed an ECR ROX full tie rod guard to keep our tie rod from harm. As we are moving the stabilizer to the front we can run a Defender style tie rod and cover it with the ECR ROX guard. This, combined with the heavy duty drag link, makes our steering gear tough as nails. The ECR ROX tie rod guard even allows you to use the factory sway bars if you want. We aren't using them, but the guard does not interfere with the sway bar, or sway bar disconnects in any way. We've also installed an ARB air locker in the front differential and are now ready to install the rest of the front axle parts.
The Disotech has a little more than a 2" suspension lift, so that means we also have to correct the drive angles to make it smooth and vibration free on those long road trips across country. This is done by installing CV joint driveshafts front and rear. In this image you can see the rear driveshaft, and its adaptor mated to the LT230 transfer case. You can also see the NRP muffler mated to the Tdi head pipe in this shot. Too bad no one will see that muffler, they are polished stainless steel and sure are good looking.
Back up front we have removed all the stock suspension pieces and have installed the custom made SG springs, rated for our heavier diesel engine, along with the Fox shocks. We've also installed new, longer brake lines to compensate for our suspension lift and increased articulation. Only thing left in the front suspension is to install the new front bump stops and set the alignment. On the frame horn you can see our mount for the front stabilizer conversion. It bolts on the frame using factory locations and works with all types of front bumpers and guards. (That headlight washer hose will be removed later)
In the image above you can see the new Defender style steering stabilizer in place, in this case we went with the Old Man Emu stabilizer. You can also see our much thicker heavy duty drag link, just in case we do brush a rock off road, we won't pretzel that ultra tough unit. When we install the front skid plate that will give us almost full front end protection from off road hazards. In the image you can also see that we have installed the front axle bump stops and run the air lines for the ARB air lockers. We installed new brake pads all around and now we are ready for some tires!
Test Tires:
In an effort to see just where we should go with the tires on the Dicotech we installed some NATO rims and BFG Mud Terrains from another Rover project, just to see what they looked like. The NATO rims in classic Rover Limestone look a little odd on the Discotech, but it gives us an idea of what a 265/75R16 looks like under those flares. Well, basically... it looks too small. The RTI ramp tests show absolutely no problems clearing the 265s, so its time to move on to something bigger.
This image shows the flares covering the 265s, we definitely need a wider tire, or we could keep this size and run a wheel spacer for a great turning radius with no rubbing on the radius arms, but we like a wider tire, so it is time to move on...
OK, this may be a little too far the other way. These are Super Swamper SX 36s on MRT 15" beadlock rims with max offset. In the rear these 36s totally clear. They fit well and do not rub even under flex. In the front however they do rub and we don't think that a lift block in the front is going to solve it. The front axle has too much articulation and it contacts some areas pretty hard.
The bad news is that we'd need to trim back the front corners of the Safari Gard front bumper (we may do that anyway), and as this is only a Stage II suspension the tire contacts the floorboards of the firewall under articulation. So basically too big... unless we wanted to go for more than a 2" lift, then it would work, but we are trying to keep the center of gravity low, and also run the biggest tires we can.
The good news is that the flares cover even these huge wheels and tires and would be legal in most states. So now it is on to our real tires, we've seen that almost anything short of 36s will fit with the flares and our smallish 2" lift, so looks like we'll end up in the 34-35 range.
Speaking of 2" lift, we finally found time to set up the front suspension correctly so that the weight of the diesel does not make the Discotech look "nose down". In this image you can see that with the final set up on the suspension the Discotech looks even better, these 36" tires now almost fit. Think of what it would take to fit 36s to a Discovery without flares... think of how high your center of gravity would be! Now think about taking a steep side hill in a Disco with huge lift blocks and spacers to let the tires clear, or taking that same side hill in the Discotech with is only 2" lift! This was the goal of the project, to explore the best solutions to a well rounded Disco, not too big, not too much lift, no goofy suspensions... just a strong, reliable, bulletproof set up. Drive it from Maine to Moab, hit the trails, then drive it home. That is the ECR way of doing things.
The real rubber for the Discotech has now arrived and looks good, but isn't too big. These Good Year MTRs will do the job of dual duty driving on the Rover well. They are almost a 33" tire and they clear in all respects with our Stage II lift kit and flares. Mounted on the NATO HD steel wheels, painted in ECR4 gray, gives the Discotech one more step of added protection as these wheels are tough as nails, and a steel wheel has the ability to have minor field damage fixed on the trail, unlike an alloy that will crack if damaged.
This images shows the Discotech nearly ready for delivery. We consider it a very well balanced package. It might be too extreme for some, but it can be used as a daily driver, and it can tackle all but the most extreme trails with ease.
To fit that nearly 33" spare to the back door of the Discotech we had to make this custom mount that raises the mounting location so that the larger rubber will clear the bumper. Shown above installed an painted in PPG 9300 black. This makes for a heavy door, and we'll probably have some premature hinge wear, but to save the space inside, and to not change of center of gravity by mounting on the roof, we'll deal with replacing the hinges down the road to keep the weight low, and retain our interior space.
This image shows the completed set up with the MTR mounted on the door and ready for action.
Here you can see the Discotech on our RTI ramp (23 degree ramp). The rear axle flex is good from the Stage II suspension, but front end flex is still stiff. A 3-link or another system to free up travel in the front would be even better, but as this is a dual duty Disco, it has really good street manners with the basic Stage II and doesn't feel top heavy even when pushed into an freeway exit ramp (well, as much as you can push a Disco.)
Under compression on the front axle all the geometry is all correct and both shock length and bump stops are doing their jobs the right way. The wheel flares open up things enough that the nearly 33" tire clears with ease. If we kept the same suspension we could easily run a 35" tire up front. If you added a 3 link to free up the front flex, then a 35" would rub in some spots.
Rear axle extension is good, here again a few more tricks would free up a few more inches of travel, but we wanted to keep the springs connected (no drop-outs) and retain the factory shock mounts to keep things easy to service in the long haul, so the basic Stage II does well.
Rear axle compression shows a huge difference from a stock Disco. The Discotech's flares really open up a large area for the 33" tire to push up into. Keep in mind that nothing is rubbing on this set up and we are running a nearly 33" tire and we have room to spare.
With the rear door open you can really see what the flares will gain you, there is quite a bit of room left in that wheelwell for larger tires.
Front axle extension is good (could be better... but what couldn't if you toss more parts and money at it!) and everything is working correctly, from brake lines to bump stops.
Here you can see a great close up of the front end protection on the Discotech. Differential guard, skid plate, Heavy Duty ECR ROX drag link, ECR ROX stabilizer relocation kit, our tie rod guard and more. Its also a good view of the Fox shock,s new Daystar bump stops and Earl's Plumbing stainless brake lines.
Hitting the RTI ramp backwards give the same results... no rubbing issue of any kind and a very nice suspension set up that has nice flex, without loosing the highway ability that the Discotech was designed to retain.
The front axle compression still yield no rubbing, even when you cut the wheel, the tires do not rub on the inner fender or on the flare itself.
So in the end what does it all mean??? Nothing really... we are just having fun playing with Rovers as we always do! Suspensions are still a subjective issue. Everyone has their opinion of what works and what doesn't, what companies they like and those they don't. We went with the Safari Gard Stage II to retain some of the on highway characteristics of the stock Disco. We like the Old Man Emu springs because they are relatively cheap and easy to swap around to get the suspension tweaked just right. We also love the Fox shocks for washboard roads and potholes. Recent tests of the Discotech on some local rutted fire roads at speed saw the Foxy's working overtime and not one chatter or axle bounce was felt even at 45 mph (road normally driven at 25 mph (shhh!! Don't tell anyone) What is it they say on TV (Close course, professional driver... well this was open road, lunatic driver!)
Any changes we would make? Yes, just one. We'd install a set of wheel spacers to bring the wheels out a bit to get a better turning radius and an even wider track for stability on the rocks.
In our opinion the flares make a world of difference to allow you to keep the center of gravity low, but increase your tire size and suspension flexibility. Sure, we'd like to see them made from a flexible material, but due to the cutting required on the rear doors, that isn't really feasible. So for us the combination works great, on road and off road, across town or on the interstate the Discotech is rady to tackle whatever gets put in its way.
RTI scores (23 degree ramp) were:
675 front
640 rear
If you have any special requests or questions about anything on your Disco
or our Discotech project, feel free to email.
We'll be more than happy to help.
PHASE 1: Paint and Body
PHASE 2: 300 Tdi and 5 speed
install (also includes bumpers, etc)
PHASE 4: Differentials, ARB
lockers, etc
PHASE 5: Seat covers, roof rack
and the rest