PHASE 2: 300 Tdi and 5 speed Install
We hope by detailing the build up of our project Discotech that we can shed some light on the 300 Tdi installs for you. We get a lot of customers that just want us to "drop a Tdi in their Rover", and as much as we'd like to be able to just "drop one in", it is a rather involved process, not impossible, but definitely not a "drop in" and definitely not fast or cheap. The Tdi install is done for the love of turbo diesel engines, great off road ability, longevity and fuel range. If fuel mileage is your goal, think twice, you could buy about 17,000 gallons of gasoline for the cost of a Tdi conversion. We hope you enjoy the images and explanations below and if you have any questions regarding Tdi conversions please do not hesitate to email or call us, we'll be glad to help in any way we can.
The drivetrain of the Discotech is one of the best things about the project vehicle. Sure, nice paint and a good suspension are cool, but lets get down to the heart of the matter. If you have read the Tdi section of this web site, you'll know that, like the rest of the world, we are big 300 Tdi fans. We'll skip the sales pitch regarding the 300 Tdi because if you weren't interested, you probably wouldn't be reading this page.
If you do need info. on the Tdi conversions that ECR does go here for more info.
The image above shows the 4.0 EFI V8 engine bay. We've removed the hood for easy access, and also so that it can get its Camel Trophy style black-out done in our paint shop.
The process starts by draining all the fluids. Coolant, oil, power steering fluid, 90 weight etc. The Discotech also has air conditioning, so we recovered the gas from the AC system as we will be taking that system apart. The 300 Tdi needs a different AC compressor and different hoses. We also have to depressurize the EFI system as it still retains a little pressure, and since we just drove the Discotech into the bay, it definitely has pressure.
Once everything is drained and depressurized we removed the systems that will no longer be used. We started with by removing the clutch fan and removing the radiator. Then we removed the air conditioning lines from the AC compressor and then went around the engine disconnecting all the systems, throttle cable, vacuum lines, fuel lines, power steering lines and all the other items associated with getting the engine out.
Here you see the RH side of the engine bay. You can see the washer bottle, the coolant expansion tank, fuse box and more. We disconnected the battery and disconnect the main brown wires from the fuse box. This is done for safety and because one of these wires leaves with the engine. We also removed the expansion tank and the washer bottle. The washer bottle has to be removed to access the engine's main wiring harness that runs behind and under it. Between the fender and the washer bottle you can see the plastic cover over the EFI ECU. This also gets removed. The expansion tank is removed because the new side bracket for the Tdi will go in the current brackets location. The new Tdi bracket will hold the fuel filter and the expansion tank.
This image shows the LH side of the engine bay. You can see the jack, the power steering reservoir, the air box and the braking system. The jack and safety ramps will be removed and relocated inside the Discotech as the Tdi air intake takes up that space that is left over with the V8 EFI engine. The air box itself will also be removed as the Tdi unit is quite different, although it does use the same air filter for ease of getting parts here in the USA. The mass air flow sensor and all EFI related sensors are all history. The brake and clutch systems stay the same in this area. Only the booster line and flex lines will change.
The ECR ROX Discotech will have all the tricks, and that includes a raised air intake (or snorkel). Here you can see that the LH fender skin has been removed. Taking the skin off is part of the snorkel installation. The large hole you see in the body shell is normally covered with a rubber grommet. We have removed the grommet to allow the air intake hose to go through that area.
The rear section of the snorkel is then bolted to the inner fender and to the roof, and then the hose is routed down the inner fender and through the hole in the fender. Later on it will be mated to the new Tdi air box. The hard part of this install is getting the cut on the fender skin correct to both fit, and to look good. It requires a steady hand, especially with all that new paint, but the end result looks great.
Back to the RH side of the engine bay. Now you can see that the washer bottle has been removed along with the expansion tank. The bolts holding the washer bottle are usually impossible to remove (rust), so we ground them off under the fender and we'll replace the bolts with stainless units when we install everything. We've stripped out the engine EFI harness and will now remove the ECU. Here you can also see the fuel lines have been removed from the engine and tucked back out of the way. The EFI fuel lines can be re-used with the Tdi, but changes to the EFI in tank fuel pump need to be made, and the in line gas fuel filters need to be removed.
On the LH side of the engine bay we have now removed the air box, the power steering reservoir and the power steering lines. The reservoir and the reservoir to pump PS lines get re-used later on, but all the other PS lines are different so they will be removed with the engine. You can also see that we've plugged the holes in the steering box with threaded plastic plugs. We don't want any dirt or bits getting into the hydraulic steering system. Next step is to go under the Discotech and remove the engine from the gearbox and get it out of here.
We removed the bellhousing bolts and all the other related parts and then lifted out the 4.0 EFI V8 in one chunk. Next we'll move onto the gearbox and transfer case removal. The Tdi uses a different gearbox. It is still an R380, but a very different version with a different bolt pattern and a different overall length. This image shows the engine bay starting to get down to where we need to to be.
The LH side of the engine bay has progressed as well. Here you can see that the air box and the other parts have been removed. You can also see that the hose for the raised air intake is now correctly routed through the inner fender opening, waiting for the Tdi air box assembly that will come later. We'll also be removing the ABS system, as we just don't like the way the Rover ABS system acts off road, and we want a simpler Disco, with the fewer systems the better. ABS removal is straight forward, but for liability reasons we aren't going to show you how to do that.
The RH side of the engine bay is also almost there. The ECU and all the other bits have now been removed. The systems that we are leaving in place will all be checked for any damage and repaired or replaced as needed.
Inside we need to get ready for the gearbox and transfer case removal. The handbrake cable needs to be disconnected as does the shifter boots and main shifter itself. In this image you can see that we have everything disconnected and are ready to drop the gearbox. The lower boot on the gearbox tunnel cover was already ripped, so we didn't take the console out at this time, but when the new set up goes in, we'll need to remove the entire console and install a new upper and lower boot. The diff. lock lever in the Discotech is also seized, most likely from lack of use, so we'll be fixing that once the gearbox is on the floor. That is a typical neded repair on Rovers that didn't see much off road use.
Here you can see the V8 R380 out and ready to be stripped down. The gearbox mounts are totally different in the Tdi, and need to be changed so that the exhaust can work correctly. We'll remove the transfer case from the gearbox and go over it thoroughly for any wear items that need to be replaced. Our transfer case didn't have any leaks, so we should be all set. Technically with our projected tire size we should be switching the 1.22 transfer case to a 1.4 ratio unit, but we have decided to go with installing a set of Ashcroft 4.11 ring and pinions instead, as these will give us the gear reduction we need on the highway, as well as a better crawl ratio off road. If we installed the 1.4 transfer case, we'd get the on road reduction we need, but no added benefits off road, as all LT230 transfer cases have the same low range gearing (well, expect for the Great Basin low range unit, that gives a lower low range). Our low range needs will be fully met by the Ashcroft Underdrive though.
This image shows the differences in the V8 and the Tdi gearbox crossmember. The Tdi unit will mount to the NAS Disco chassis, but nothing else from the NAS Disco will cross over. Due to vibrations from the diesel and the different exhaust system, the diesel mounts are designed differently and they need to be installed to make everything work correctly.
The black unit is the Tdi version. It incorporates not only the gearbox mounts, but also the frame strengthening cross brace. In the V8 version the gearbox mounts go to the frame via 3 bolts each, and the cross brace is located under the bell housing as a separate unit. This crossmember change is also the reason that a 3 link suspension system, such as the units from Safari Gard must be custom made to work with a Tdi.
Now that the V8 and all its associated bits have been removed we can get to work on the needed modification to fit the Tdi. First up, we need to completely remove both the L and R engine mounts (RH mount seen above, as viewed from below). These we will cut off with the plasma cutter, and then use our Tdi jig to perfectly position the new engine mounts that we will need to fabricate by hand, but before that, now that the tear down is nearly complete, we'll push the Discotech outside and degrease everything so that we can have a clean working environment as well as great looking engine bay when we are done.
So there you have it. We've taken a perfectly good running and driving Disco and reduced it to a rolling chassis with a body placed on it. Actually, we're just kidding... we've now got everything cleaned up and ready to start getting the Tdi ready. There isn't much left that we can use from the EFI V8 systems, but that is what has to be done to install the 300 Tdi.
Next up, we'll get the LT230 transfer case set up on the new R380 Tdi gearbox and get the new 300 Tdi out of the crate and start to set that up as well.
GEARBOXES:
Now that the gearbox and transfer case have been removed, we can start to swap the parts. The original LT230 with is 1.22 ratio is too high to make use of the 300 Tdis's power band, especially with the tire we plan to use, but instead of swapping out the 1.22 case for a 1.4, we are going to install a set of Ashcroft 4.11 ring and pinions instead of the stock 3.54 gears. This will give us the lower gearing we need for our tire size and as an added bonus we will lower our low range crawl ratio. If we did the 1.4 transfer case we would only benefit on the road, but not off road, as all LT230 transfer cases share the same low range gearing, it is only the hi range that varies.
In this image you can see the 2 R380 5 speed gearboxes from this project. The unit on the right is the out going V8 unit. You can see that the V8 bellhousing is radically different than the 300 Tdi version on the left, as is the input shaft. There are numerous other changes and lots of parts needed to make this change over. Notice that the clutch slave cylinder is on the other side as well. That means making a new clutch pipe and new flex line set up.
Seen here for another angle, you can see the input shaft differences, and the difference in overall length (V8 close to camera, Tdi away from camera). The placement of the V8i and the 300 Tdi are very different in the chassis, so the correct gearbox is mandatory (notice the relationship from the bell housing mounting face, to the shifter placement). Here you can also see that the LT230 transfer case has now been removed from the V8 R380 and installed on the Tdi R380, and the transfer case linkage has been swapped over, as has the handbrake parts and other small items.
AUTOMATICS:
If you wanted an automatic version of the Tdi (Disco or Defender) the same basic gearbox rules apply. The two units are completely different and the V8 automatic can not be used in a 300 Tdi application and vice versa. Also keep in mind that the back sections (and other aspects) of the 5 speed and automatic Tdi engines themselves are very different.
Not all the work happens up front on the Discotech. The rear needs some attention for the Tdi conversion as well. The first step was to remove the fuel tank and remove the EFI fuel pump from the tank. Once the tank was removed and drained of all its gasoline and cleaned, the fuel lines are blown out to also remove any gas. The good thing is that the EFI V8 has a supply and a return line, just like the Tdi uses, so we can retain the fuel lines. However we have to remove the in line fuel filter for reasons of fuel restriction.
We do this by removing the fuel filter (shown here in the right rear wheel well) and then replacing it with a length of flared stainless steel tubing. This eliminates the gas fuel filter and makes for a long term solution that will not rust.
The fuel pump assembly (shown above removed from the tank) also needs to be modified in a number of ways. The in tank fuel pump will no longer be used. It will be disconnected electrically in the new wiring changes still to come. We can't simply remove the old EFI pump because the unit not only houses the EFI pump, but also the fuel tank level sending unit and we need to keep that. So we modify the pick up with a new stainless steel pick up tube that is carefully measured to reach the bottom of the tank. Remember that the fuel pump assembly is spring loaded, so the height that is sits at on the bench is not the same height that it will be once it goes back in the tank. The fuel return line is also modified and then the pump assembly, that is now only used as a fuel pick up/ return and a fuel level indicator is put back into the tank and the tank is then put back into the Discotech.
As we are working on the rear of the Discotech we took this time to install the Safari Gard rear bumper. First we removed the old bumper and brackets and the removed all the excess wiring that is no longer used. Then the bumper was installed. This gives us great protection from right behind the rear wheel all the way back.
The bumper gets lined up, bolted in place and goes on easily. We also sprung for the 2" receiver tube in our bumper. It isn't good for towing a trailer, but it does make a great recovery point so that we can tow out other stuck vehicles on the trail. Please excuse the dust on the new bumper. It has been sitting in the paint prep. area for the last few weeks.
The fuel tank skid plate has also been installed and will keep us from harming the fuel tank during any off road antics. The aluminum skid plates takes some custom work to fit, but they do the job nicely and look great as well. The sway bars are in the process of being removed and discarded.
One of the small items that you probably wouldn't think of, but that is very important in the Tdi conversion, is the fuel fill. Unleaded gas pump nozzles have a very small tube and the gas fills of unleaded cars are built to match these nozzles, but diesel fuel nozzles are huge and made for trucks. Therefore we need to remove the gas fill assembly and remove the unleaded opening by replacing it with the correct Tdi part. Then we'll remove the "Unleaded Fuel Only" decal and replace it with the correct Land Rover "Diesel Fuel" decal. Attention to detail is what will make the Discotech a real killer machine.
As we finish up items in the rear of the Discotech it is time to move forward, literally. The engine bay has been stripped back to what we need, and now it is time for some fabrication. The motor mounts of the 300 Tdi are very different that the V8 units. They are made to correctly withstand the vibrations that diesels generate and are centered on the engine to better distribute the engine's weight. The V8 mounting position and mounts can not be used in the 300 Tdi install. In this image you can see that we have positioned out Tdi engine mount jig in the engine bay. This device correctly places the Tdi mounts that we will fabricate for the Disco's frame for a perfect fit. Then we will cut off the EFI V8 mounts, grind the area flush and paint it, and then we'll be ready to drop the Tdi engine and gearbox assembly into place.
In this image you can see that we have installed the Tdi R380 5 speed and set up the clutch release parts. Also notice that a new clutch pipe has been run from the driver's side to the passenger's side to run the clutch slave cylinder on the Tdi gearbox (see the gearbox images above as to why this is needed) and we've installed a new flex hose. You'll also see that in this image the V8 engine mounts are gone.
OK, here is the first glitch. The chassis on the USA Disco has a number of differences from its Tdi counterpart. The Tdi gearbox crossmember that we have to use (as it is what holds the gearbox mounts and allows for the Tdi exhaust system) does not directly bolt to the USA chassis. The bolt holes marked by the 2 red arrows are supposed to line up in theory, but they don't. The remaining 3 bolts on each side of the gearbox crossmember work correctly, but we'll need to modify the crossmember by cutting it along the red dotted line and then drilling a new front mounting hole. The good news is that in the scope of this project if that is the only glitch then we are doing great. The other good news is that there is plenty of steel in the crossmember to allow us to place the bolt in a different location and by cutting the lower section off we gain ground clearance, so although it was a glitch, it has only positive repercussions.
Here you can see the new 300 Tdi engine assembly all set up and ready to go into the engine bay. We still need to make the needed changes to convert this engine from a Defender Tdi to a Discovery version and we've also made the required modification to make this an engine that will run air conditioning as the Discotech has AC, as did all US Discos, and we want to keep it.
This image shows the completed engine mounts for the Tdi set up. Now its time to drop the motor in place.
This image shows the engine, now mated to the gearbox and setting in the correct location. We've installed the radiator and intercooler assembly to double check our engine mount placement and its all A'OK. Next we'll start hooking up all the systems and get ready to install the front suspension and front bumper assembly. We can also start to finish up the interior by putting the console and shifters back in place.
Phase 2 continues, click here.
PHASE 1: Paint and Body
PHASE 3: Stage II Suspension, wheels and tires
PHASE 4: Differentials, ARB lockers, etc
PHASE 5: Seat covers, roof rack and the rest
Back to the Disco Section
Back to the Tdi Section
East Coast Rover Co.
21 Tolman Road
Warren, ME 04864
email: ecrover@midcoast.com